Overnight sail to nowhere

19 Sep. 13

We sat happily on the dockside when a man in Transnet uniform walked over and informed us we have to move off the docks as they are derelict and could fall down at any time. I asked him about the steel boat next to us and he said it also has to move but they don’t have a contact number for anyone to inform them. He told me to contact port control to confirm his story and gave me a number to call. I made the call and port control confirmed we had to move. Lola and I discussed our options and decided to check the weather. The forecast was mild but the wind was variable and from all directions which was not an ideal window for a trip down to PE in our opinion. Other more experiences sailors would have taken this window with a smile but for us it wasn’t what we wanted. However since we had been chased off our spot we went to the police and lodged a flight plan for PE.

 At five in the afternoon we motored out the harbour and headed out to sea hoping to find the current to give us a push down the coast and add a few knots to our speed. The current however had other ideas and instead of helping pushed against us slowing us down from 5 to 3 knots so we turned and headed further out to sea. After 3 hours and about 12 miles offshore we were still heading into the counter current and the swell had now teamed up with it so we found ourselves heading into the waves making our ride rather bouncy and uncomfortable. Lola was slowly turning green and I knew she would be talking into her bucket soon so asked her if we should head inshore to try avoid the counter current instead of continuing our fruitless search for the current. She agreed and we turned inshore. As we headed inshore our boat speed steadily decreased until we could only do 2 knots under motor. At that point the wind started to pick up but it was coming from the south west, directly on the nose. So now we had the current and the wind against us. We decided to close haul and raised the sails hoping the wind would help. In order to sail against the wind we had to change course again and this time headed almost directly towards the shore. Our speed increased slightly from 2 to 3 knots but now we were tacking in towards the coast then back out to sea. Two hours went by and we had only made a few miles headway although we had sailed a lot more in distance. The wind was steadily increasing and the waves grew bigger, Lola was speaking seriously into her bucket and was not a happy camper and me, I of course, was feeling guilty for making her do it. In between her discussions with the bucket Lola mentioned that the prediction had only called for wind between 5 and 10 knots coming from the north. We had about 15 to 20 coming from the south instead so the next time we closed in on the shore I asked her to go online and see if we could get an updated prediction. She did and the conditions had changed dramatically with the south west wind climbing all the way to 30 knots in the morning. We looked at the prediction and calculated where we would be at that time considering our pathetic boat speed. We had hoped to be near bird island at lunch time but our current rate would place us somewhere before Port Alfred. This was not going well and it meant we would be out at sea when the wind arrived so we decided to turn around and head back. We arrived back just before sunrise and waited outside the harbour until it was up wanting to find a spot to drop our hook in the daylight. So our first attempt at PE turned out to be an overnight sail to Hamburg, about a quarter of the way, and back.  

Technical difficulties along the way? Yes we had a few. My repair in the starboard hull seemed to work as it stopped creaking but we took on water instead. About a litre during the trip in the starboard hull. The port hull however took a lot more, about ten litres. I wouldn’t have noticed the water intake since I did not check the bilges until we hit something under the water. We don’t know what it was but heard the bump as we collided with it and I went to open the bilges to check. It sounded like it came from the starboard side so I checked that side first. If I didn’t find water in it I’m not sure if I would’ve have bothered checking the port side. So it was quite a surprise when I opened the port bilge and found it half filled with water sloshing all over the place. There wasn’t enough water in it to make the electric bilge pump switch on but was still annoying and I had to keep an eye on it the rest of the way. Electric bilge pumps are a dumb design in my opinion and they normally only work when the bilge is completely full and the water reaches the floorboards. I would like a bilge pump that keeps the bilge completely dry but this would probably be impractical. I don’t know where the water comes from but we had the same problem on the sail down from Durban. I had dried the bilges after we arrived here and they had stayed dry the entire time this means the water ingress only happens when we motor sail. Just one more thing to add to my list.   

 

21 Sep. 13

A beautiful 54 foot Royal Cape Catamaran arrived here from Durban with a delivery skipper and his two crew members. We were still at anchor and they dropped their hook nearby. For most of the day and into the evening the two boats swung happily next to each other as the wind shifted direction from north east to south west. At about eight the south west picked up to over 20 knots and I noticed their boat slowly drag passed until they were no longer next to us and well on their way back out the harbour. We tried to grab their attention and blew our fog horn repeatedly but they did not come outside. As they dragged further and further down the channel Kyle decided to test his vocal skills and screamed at the top of his voice hoping to warn them of the danger they were in. His voice echoed back at us from across the harbour but the crew was still unaware of their plight. At that moment Kyle noticed a reflection of a TV screen coming through one of their windows and informed us they would not hear us since they were pre occupied by a PlayStation game. With no other choice we launched our dingy and rowed across to warn them. A very surprised young man came out the door when we knocked and thanked us for the warning. We rowed back to Yrumoar as they reset their anchor. This incident stole all Lola’s sleep as her mind wouldn’t stop worrying so she was up and down all night making sure our anchor stayed put. In the morning we moved Yrumoar and tied her onto the wall. I guy we had met here runs a charter company and he rents the wall from Transnet so had invited us to tie up here while one of his boats is on the hard undergoing some repairs. We were really glad he had made the offer since we needed to leave Yrumoar somewhere while we go to the wedding next month and couldn’t leave her at anchor. Another amazing East Londoner, this town seems to be filled with really helpful people.

 The Royal Cape catamaran followed us shortly afterwards and also tied onto the wall to wait out a forecasted south west blow. Even though we exchanged a few words when they came in to anchor we actually met the crew officially once they had tied up to the wall. They invited us over for tea and cake in the evening and we had a great time chatting and getting to know them. The time just flew by and by the time we noticed it for the first time it was almost midnight. As we prepared to leave we noticed a dingy rowing across the harbour towards us. We all exchanged glances and none of us knew who would be rowing across to us at midnight. The skipper Brad asked me if we knew who it was and we said no. So we all waited as he rowed across. He was struggling to keep his dingy pointed in our direction and we could hear him talking to himself as he came closer. At that point we all realised he was on his way over from the Yacht club after the bar had closed believing he wasn’t quite drunk enough and needed more. He arrived and got onto the boat without listening to a word we said. When the skipper finally managed to explain to him that the party was over and we were all on our way to bed he became obnoxious and mumbled a few insults under his breath as he climbed back on his dingy. While he rowed away back across the harbour we could all hear him speaking to himself again. This time however we had become the centre of his conversation and he described us a bunch of shitheads that didn’t do him any favours. I wonder if he is going to remember anything in the morning or next time we bump into each other over at the yacht club.

 People who get that drunk fascinate me. I don’t know how they do it or why. It surely can’t be fun and even if it is they normally can’t remember it anyway. Don’t get me wrong I enjoy a good dop as much as the next guy, I just don’t enjoy making an ass of myself. I think I did enough of that when I was younger. 

Suspects

14 Sep. 13

Feeling a bit down we decided to get off Yrumoar and go for a walk down to the beach. Our time here has dragged on for longer than expected and we are all ready to move on, however, we did a calculation and financially it makes more sense for us to wait here until after Tammy’s wedding. The bus fares will be cheaper and we would be away from Yrumoar for less time.

The beach is quite far from here but the walk was a pleasant distraction and is good for the heart anyway. Besides, it also doesn’t cost anything to take a walk. The scenery on route is not something to write about since it runs through the centre of town and East London central is not scenic by any stretch of the imagination.

About half way we stopped under a shade port next to an empty car show room to catch our breath and give our legs some time to recover. The short rest stop gave us enough energy to continue and since none of us are psychic and able to predict the future we went on our merry way not knowing our rest stop would have any significance in our future lives.

The ocean is always spectacular and we sat on a wall watching the waves crash on the rocks while we again caught our breath. When we had enough of the waves to last us a few days we headed on down the beach front road to check out the aquarium and the German memorial site. Our stomachs told us that lunch time had arrived and we started looking towards the various restaurants that are lay scattered all along the road. Our first choice was a place named Y-knot. However when we entered the doorway we were told that it was still too early for lunch and we would have to come back later so we left and looked for another place. A beautiful building on the beach with a 180 degree sea view housed another restaurant, La Vida. Here we sat down, looked at the menu, gasped at the prices, and left. Almost directly across the road another restaurant, Guido’s, advertised a really good value breakfast so we decided to give them a chance.

 

Our meal and the service from our waiter were mediocre and we left after lunch feeling disappointed in our choice. On our walk back we stopped at the same place as before and our unknown future suddenly presented itself. We were still sitting in the shade resting when a bakkie with two men inside pulled up and stopped in front of us.

They stared at us for a while before the one decided to get out. He then walked towards us and sat down on the wall next to Rauen. We greeted him in our usual casual manner and waited for him to say something. He started with a question, “how long have you been sitting here?” Then he told us something about a missing I-phone and R2000 he has in his pocket that he would swop instantly if the phone was returned to him. We all just looked at each other and shrugged our shoulders. Then he got up and left. It was surreal and we felt accused of somehow making this I-phone disappear. After a few seconds we accepted our new roles as suspects involved in cell phone theft syndicates and we got up and made our way back to Yrumoar.

 

My book is finally available in print copy at Amazon and I wanted to order a few Author’s copies to sell along the way. This plan however is flawed since the Author’s copies along with postage and import duties from Amazon makes the book too expensive to sell so Lola and I have discussed an alternative plan. We looked around on the net for a printing company here in East London hoping to print a few copies. We found one and sent an e-mail but they had not sent us a reply so while we were walking back Lola noticed their signboard and we went into their offices. We met a bubbly young lady with an infectious laugh and she quickly printed a quote for us. The price per book is more reasonable but we would need to order at least five hundred copies. Hmm, we will have to think about that.

  

16 Sep. 13

This morning three boats left the harbour on route to their various destinations. One of the boats was a Rodman power boat with a delivery skipper on board on his way to Cape Town. His next stop would be PE. We met him and his crew two days ago when they arrived and wanted to tie onto us. I told them to go tie onto the wall behind us and was glad I did that when they asked me if I had any fenders they could borrow since they didn’t have any. Power boats as a rule are not a welcome sight. They never have the correct equipment on board and their skippers are usually very inconsiderate towards other boats. Anyway I didn’t have any spare fenders so found an old car tyre on the docks and gave it to them. The next morning they asked me to boil a kettle for them since their microwave didn’t work and they needed coffee. I boiled the kettle and wondered if they would be over at lunch time when they got hungry.

The other two boats were sailing boats with very different destinations. One was heading for Madagascar with a French solo sailor on board and the other, a young couple on board heading down the coast to PE. We were tempted to follow them but had already made our decision to wait until after the wedding.  

Far away family and long lost friends

02 Sep. 13

My daughter turns 23 today and I can still picture her as the small little girl with her hands up in the air beckoning me to pick her up and carry her around. The time flies by so quickly and sometimes I wish I could turn it back and have her sitting on my arm with her little face close to mine as we walk around the backyard while she points inquisitively at everything around her and I try to name the plants, trees and birds. It would look odd now since she is almost as tall as me and possibly knows the correct names of the things as opposed to the ones I invented but it’s a great dream anyway. I hope to chat to her on Skype sometime today since she is still on the other side of the world and I miss her.   

 

We had some friends come over on Saturday and stayed overnight to get the feel of life aboard Yrumoar. Lola made a roast with vegetables for Sunday lunch and we all ate like pigs. Kenny tried unsuccessfully to land a fish on board and Sharlene chatted away to Lola. The time went by quickly as usual and I hope they enjoyed their visit.   

 

04 Sep. 13

Yesterday I decided to fix our geyser since it hasn’t been working for the last year or so. We haven’t really needed it so it wasn’t a priority but the water down here is cold and the boys are suffering a bit when they wash the dishes. I stripped it piece for piece but couldn’t find anything wrong. The things that light the gas like little spark plugs worked shooting small sparks whenever I tried to get it going but the gas wouldn’t light. I stripped the gas pipe and checked if it was blocked. It wasn’t and I could smell the gas as soon as I removed the pipe. Next I tried to follow the pipe into the geyser and found a solenoid in the line. I took the solenoid out and tested it. It worked. I put it back in and tested the geyser again. Still nothing. I stripped the next thing above the solenoid, a gas adjustment knob. Put it back together and tested the geyser. Nothing. I don’t know why but finally I decided to replace the batteries. In my mind the batteries were working since the little spark plug thingies worked. With the new batteries installed I tested the geyser and it worked. Lunch time had arrived and Lola told me the food was ready. After lunch I tested the geyser one last time to make sure it was actually fixed and it wasn’t working again. I became very frustrated and gave up on the stupid thing. Later in the afternoon Kyle tried to boil the kettle and the stove wouldn’t light. This was when we discovered our gas bottle was empty. With the new bottle installed the geyser worked perfectly. I still don’t understand why I never replaced the batteries the first time the geyser wouldn’t work about a year ago and why I only decided to do it after stripping half the geyser’s guts out. All I can say, if the mind is slow the body must suffer and I am an idiot yet again.

 

This morning we had a pod of dolphins come by for a visit and this afternoon we saw our first seal swimming in the harbour. 

 

07 Sep. 13

A few days ago Marimba sailed into the harbour. We had met Ilene on Marimba in Richards bay when she was struggling to set sail to Simons Town. Marimba had some engine trouble and a bent shaft but it was eventually fixed and she left. We waited a few days for them to settle before we oared over to catch up. It’s fascinating how the sailing community works. In Richards bay we only had one or two quick conversations in passing but now we are like old friends that are reunited after a short absence. Ilene told us about their trip down to Simon’s town and how Mark from Atlantis who was sailing along with them had landed on the shore after his anchor chain snapped in Struis Bay. Sea rescue had pulled him back out to sea and he did eventually get across the Atlantic to Brazil. Ilene had again sailed with Mark on Atlantis in Brazil where they had steering problems and almost had to abandon ship. Apparently Atlantis is now up for sale in Brazil and Mark’s dream has come to an end.

 

Marimba is on her way up to Dar Es Salam but had to make a stop here since Ilene picked up an eye infection somewhere off PE. She invited us aboard for supper and we ate Warthog for the first time. It doesn’t taste like pig and is very stringy like rabbit so I wasn’t sure if I liked it or not but ate it anyway. Maybe it’s just the way they cooked it in a soupy stew with no rice as starch. While listening to her I realised how much sailing she has done in the last year compared to us and I felt like a wimp but I suppose the facts are the facts and I cannot deny them. I am a wimp.

 

09 Sep. 13

Marimba left at five in the afternoon and we blew our fog horn and waved our final goodbye’s as she sailed passed us on her way out the harbour. I sat in the cockpit wondering if we would ever meet again as I watched their progress until their mast disappeared around the corner and out to sea. This sailing life is one filled with farewells and hopes that we may meet again somewhere in an uncertain future.

 

 

 

Nick and Doreen invited us over for another one of Nick’s special potjies and we spent a great afternoon over at their place.  

 

 

My Book Arrived!

27 Aug. 13

The cell rang and Lola answered. I was standing outside in the cockpit but could hear the excitement in her voice as she spoke. My print copy had finally arrived and Vava from the Greenfields post office had made the call. Lola whooped and bounced around as she excitedly rattled off her thank you thank you over and over again into the cell. I love the way she reacts to some things, uncontrolled and with gusto. I myself struggle to get excited and treat most things as one would feel about eating the same breakfast cereal day after day, it’s just something that has to happen. Anyway, we readied ourselves and took the long walk up to the post office. The last time we caught the taxi to the post office to find out if the book had arrived and when it hadn’t we had walked back to let off some steam and it turned out to be a pleasant walk. Our calculations however, didn’t consider the fact that last time the walk was downhill. We had to stop a few times on the walk uphill to catch our breath but made it in the end. Vava handed over our parcel and Lola’s excitement returned quickly even though we were all a bit tired. She tore open the wrapping and waved the book about in the air passing it to me to hold while she took out the camera to document the moment. Her excitement was contagious and everyone in the post office stopped what they were doing and watched as the camera snapped away. I felt a bit like an idiot but also elated holding my first book in my hand. We passed it around in the post office for all to look at then waved goodbye as we walked over to Pick & Pay.

 

With two heavily loaded trolleys we arrived at the checkout. The teller asked Lola why she was buying so much stuff and a conversation about our boat started. After we had paid our bill and started leaving the store the teller shouted for us to wait. We all stood looking at her confused and wondering why she stopped us. Then she handed Lola a slab of chocolate and said thank. We were still confused and very surprised but thanked her and left the store. We walked around the corner towards Pick & Pay liquors pushing our trolleys. I asked Lola what just happened and she shrugged her shoulders. Never before had we bought groceries at any Pick & Pay and been given a chocolate for doing so. When we got to the end of the back parking area we asked the boys to watch the trolleys while we went into the liquor store and bought some drinks.

 

 

When we got back I told Lola to call a taxi and we lit a cigarette to wait for its arrival. A man dressed in a Pick & Pay shirt walked over to us and asked if we were waiting for someone to pick us up. I joked with him and said we were going to walk the trolleys home then quickly told him we would be calling a taxi. He said no we don’t need to call the taxi, he would organise us a lift. We all looked at him in confusion and tried to protest but he had already walked away. A few seconds later he arrived back with another guy dressed in Pick & Pay uniform. He introduced us to the other guy and told us this guy would give us a ride back to our boat. We were dumbfounded but followed the other guy who we discovered was the store manager to his vehicle and loaded our trolleys onto the back of his double cab. He drove us back to the boat and even helped us unpack and carry our stuff to the boat. Wow! What service! I still can’t believe it happened but urge everyone I know to go and support this Pick & Pay if you ever pass through Greenfields in East London. I think I am even going to sit down and write a compliment letter to their head office.